July’s radiant birthstone takes center stage in jewelry by Piaget, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, David Yurman and Mellerio.
Of all of the precious gemstones, perhaps none evokes as much emotion as the ruby. Historically, rubies have been associated with prosperity, wealth and protection, as well as passion, in cultures around the world. Rubies have been crafted into jewelry—necklaces, in particular—at least as far back as the ancient civilizations of China and India. In China, rubies were highly valued for their beauty, as well as their relative rarity. They were believed to carry the life force, or chi, as well as protect the wearer from evil spirits. In India’s Sanskrit language, rubies were known as the “king of gems,” or ratnaraj.
In modern English, the name ruby comes from the Latin word ruber, which translates to “red.” Rubies are the red color variety of the mineral corundum and can range in tone from pinkish to orangeish to purplish tints. All of the other corundum color variations—including yellow, orange, pink and green, as well as the well-known blue—are classified as sapphires. Rubies with the highest color saturation and transparency are generally the most valued and most expensive. They are also among the very hardest minerals, scoring 9 out of 10 on the Mohs hardness scale, second only to diamonds, which are rated as 10.
Like diamonds, rubies are formed under intense pressure and extreme heat far below the earth’s surface. Many of the world’s most precious rubies can be found in royal collections around the world, including the British crown jewels. While most of the finest rubies come from Burma, they also are mined in several countries around the world, including Australia, Tanzania and the United States.
Taking Wing
Van Cleef & Arpels has long been known for its whimsical shapes and designs inspired by the natural world, in addition to its incorporation of the finest-quality gemstones. The brand, first founded in 1906, is world-renowned for its jewelry’s beauty and uniqueness. This Two Butterfly ring from the brand’s Fauna collection features rubies set in the brand’s patented Mystery Set™ technique and diamonds in 18K white gold.
Founded in 1874 as a watch movement manufacture in Switzerland by Georges-Édouard Piaget, Piaget introduced its first high jewelry collection in 1959. The jewelry “championed the playfulness of asymmetry and mixed stone cuts,” according to the brand, “creating sensuous masterpieces that moulded to the neck and wrist like the ribbon in a couturier’s bow, moving freely with the wearer.”
Swinging Sixties
Piaget’s newest high jewelry collection, called Shapes of Extralaganza, explores the brand’s creative roots of the 1960s and ’70s. The earrings pictured feature rubies, pink spinels and diamonds set in 18K rose gold.
Deco Dream
Rome-based Bulgari, founded in 1884, cites the 1920s Art Deco period as “unquestionably defining years” for its signature style. It was during this period that the brand began featuring “geometric and stylized designs” and incorporating “singular-color” gemstones into its designs. Bulgari’s Diva’s Dream earrings have a distinctive open-worked design and are set with pear-shaped rubies and diamonds in 18K rose gold.
Celestial Celebration
David and Sybil Yurman founded their eponymous company in 1980, a year after they were married. In the ensuing 45 years, the couple has secured its place as one of America’s best fine jewelry houses. “Creativity, innovation and impeccable craftsmanship are at the core of everything we do,” according to the brand. The David Yurman Starbust ring pictured here features a central ruby with pink sapphire-set “rays” emanating from it anchored in 18K white gold. David Yurman’s inspiration for the collection came from a fireworks display “illuminating the sky above the Eiffel Tower,” that “deeply moved” his wife.
Regal Ruby
Before the process of culturing pearls was invented at the end of the 19th century, natural pearls were extremely rare. Highly prized and so expensive, only royalty and the highest classes in society could afford them. Paris-based jeweler Mellerio was founded in 1613 and catered to the likes of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, crafting jewels set with pearls and rubies, among other precious stones. The brand’s Livadia ring pictured here has a decidedly regal flair, featuring a central cabochon ruby accented with pearls and diamonds.
